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Karon last won the day on March 30

Karon had the most liked content!

About Karon

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Star Citizen

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    London, UK
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    DCS, ArmA3, SC, Il2

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  1. I guess kinda happen when you want to fly in the RIO seat If only SC will have something similar. I remember I did my first big purchase (Connie) in 2013 because it should have had a C² station. Unfortunately everything is different now but I hope that at least the Polaris will have a C²!
  2. So, I haven't updated this post in a while so here is the latest version (tbh it has been like that for almost a couple months now). I still have to solder the last 4 rotary encoders but their relative functions haven't been implemented yet. As you have probably guessed already, the two new boxes are for the RIO seat of the F-14.
  3. Might be, I don't have NMS. I (used to) fly SC using the same control settings I used in WC and Freespace and both are arcade games so fast-paced, quite intuitive, non-realistic games. You can't, in fact, use the same configuration for, eg, SC and flight simulators: for example the Ka-50 profile for my CH Pro Pedals feels quite similar to the real Robinson R44 pedals in terms of strength and balance but it's totally unusable for SC. In primis the yaw axis is not on the pedals but on the stick (at least in my cfg), in secundis the curves are very hard and not responsive enough for a fast-paced game as SC. I hope that clarifies what I meant. Pedals or not it's up to you. In my opinion HOTAS and Pedals > 2x sticks. With the former you have more axis (6 vs 8+) and since you manoeuvre the most with pedals and stick, you can use your "secondary" hand to reach any possible additional controller you may need. But again, your choice
  4. In case you've missed it, the F-14 has been released. Best module in DCS so far. PM me if you need a human RIO
  5. I have a T-50 since late 2018, then bought a throttle on the day-one, you can see a couple pics in the thread I opened about my setup here (I will update it soon with some RIO stuff I built for DCS F-14). There are some recordings of DCS in my youtube channel as well. Virpil is great. Yet sometimes bloody garbage QA-wise. Don't get me wrong, I love them but being an old customer I had to live with some serious issues. I don't want to write a poem so, short version, the throttle was delivered with every bloody internal screw very loose (or totally unscrewed). I had to open it and put them back together. I don't use the detents because I fly primarily rotary-wings but other folks are having issues with them. That being said, the throttle is quite nice, has some really smart touches such has the Master Arm switch and lots of keys. Its software allows to bind different functions to the 2-way latched switches that comes assigned to a single button by default so I'm happy about the flexibility. Btw, it's based on the ATmega32u4, as the Arduino Leonardo/Genuino I use for my HID Control Panels (DCS-BIOS works via serial instead) so I am aware of its potential. It comes with a tons of different controls but I don't use it much because I'd rather build a dedicated control box depending on what I'm playing with. Nevertheless, if you are short on buttons, the throttle is quite good, the three most important axis use hall sensors instead of pots (they should have made the antenna elev that way as well though). For arcades such as Star Citizen though, something such as the TWCS might be a bit better: lower cost, acceptable amount of buttons and a very useful rudder axis in case you don't have pedals (Pro tip: buy pedals). The T-50 is another story. Mine was one of the first batches so it came with the dreaded threadlocker that has caused so many damages when trying to swap cams. Guess what, my cams had some quality issues and were causing some sort of friction and vibrations and I spanned a screw while trying to get them off (despite the soldering iron at 400 deg). I sent it back and it got "lost" for two months in the Minsk customs. Actually, initially they said they received it, later on they realized they simply messed up. I had to contact Amazon to finally have an answer though. That being said, the centred stick is another planet. I had a CH Fighterstick for 15 years and they cannot be compared. I thought CH was amazing but Virpil, damn, it's simply so good. The precision you have when manoeuvring is incredible: AAR is much easier, same as pinpointing targets or aligning for a salvo of S-8. Quick note: for the love of god, avoid the TM Warthog. I tried it a few times and it's a very good stick for DCS but its gimbals are a massive nope. I expected much more for its cost. A good solution though is a used Tog stick + a T-50 base. At the end of the day, Virpil is still a fairly new company. They might have overstepped a bit and rushed some parts but they are finally recovering by slowing down deliveries and improving many aspects such as the software. I definitely reccommend them if you are someone that is not afraid of using a screwdriver: Virpil is meant to be opened and adjusted (screws, cams, etc) to deliver the best experience. Feel free to ask anything you need (I'm way more active on Discord though).
  6. In case someone is interested, they have released the manual for the upcoming F-14 yeasterday: http://www.heatblur.se/F-14Manual/index.html
  7. Quick answer: depends on the budget. I have pedals, stick and throttle and I think they are way superior (more buttons and axis, for instance). Anyway, in the end of the day it's up to you. Whatever the configuration, I'd buy Virpil or VKB. If you can't or don't want to spend then go for Thurstmaster, the TWCS is a decent product for instance. Just don't buy Saitek, it's rubbish. I know things are changing after the acquisition but madcatz has done damages, plenty of them. The Warthog is decent but the gimbals are quite bad unfortunately. After those HOTAS+Pedals or 2xStick, Track IR (or cheaper / DIY alternatives) is the next step. It's simply a must, much more important than a mid range hotas. I have a thread about my setup here if you have questions. I'm going to update it sooner or later (getting ready for F/A-18 and F-14! ):
  8. Well, you probably weren't telling it what you wanted in the correct way. Your life on the Ka-50 changes as you understand how the Trimmer and the APs work; every RW and the Shark in particular are quite stable once trimmed correctly. Once you got those mechanics, it becomes one of the easiest and more powerful modules in DCS.
  9. I don't mean to necro, but you shouldn't control the throttles in the Ka-50 manually. They are fully automatic, put it that position before turning on the AC generator and after turning on the engines. You don't want to touch them unless you have an emergency situation. The Ka-50 is a joke to fly after a few weeks spent on it. It flies automatically between waypoints, avoid obstacles, doesn't suffer much from VRS and the coaxial configuration is the most stable for a RW. It's avionics are great (is a great AFAC platform, for instance) but has one, massive, problem: it's a single seater. When you are managing comms on two radios, scanning for targets and threats and flying NOE.. well, you'll want a co-pilot The Mi-24P and the AH-1S are being developed, unfortunately they are both obsolete avionics-wise and will see the light in 20-o-never.
  10. UPDATE 02•19: Quick update about the setup, ready for DCS F/A-18 with the 3rd MFD and the 7" LCD. I still hope that SC will support exporting data to a secondary screen. https://karonshome.files.wordpress.com/2019/02/img_20190108_162833010.jpg ORG POST I'm a tenant and I live in a small flat so I don't have much space available: no way to build a proper simpit. I decided therefore to build a modular set of control boxes, each based on an independent Arduino board. My first control box was based on a video I found online (I worked with 8-16 bits PICs before, never with Arduino so that video has opened a new world to me). The following control boxes have little to nothing in common with the first (which is great considering that the first example controls up to ~25 buttons, my latest more than 80). I have recently added a 7" 800x600 MFD and I plan to add a similar one later. The problem is.. that this stuff is totally useless in SC. Besides the fact that the firmwares I wrote are always on/on and I have no idea how they react with SC (I can always change them); the fact is that SC is very arcade and a hotas satisfies its need of controls, killing the need of a simpit right away. Moreover SC has no decent controls management, not to mention the possibility to export avionics status. I remember an old goal about these features, hopefully that will be implemented sooner or later. That being said, this is an old pic of my setup. I had changed many things but I haven't taken any pic yet. This is the 7" LCD I use to export MFDs or other avionics. Hopefully sooner or later they'll work with SC. The little screen on the top is a small TFT. It gets data from DCS and I wrote the firmware that displays different values and icons depending of the values it receives. In this case, it shows info about the Ka-50. One of these boxes can be built with 30€-40€ depending on where you buy (china is cheaper but takes ages, I usually buy from Amazon UK – one day delivery at the lockers!) and if you have the basica material already (wires, soldering iron, etc). You write your own firmware so you can do almost whatever you want and you can change anything anytime. These are a couple pics of what is inside the boxes. The F/A-18 UFC/ Ka-50 PRTz/PVI-800 is the latest I built and is a bit more complex than the others. It doesn't take longer that 4-5 hours to build one.
  11. I did some changes too. Melted an Ursa, one of the game packages, spent 20$ and I have added a CCU HH→Polaris (easier than melt and buyback) and a Prospector. Now I have: - BMM - HH (might become a Polaris again) - Prospector - Cutlass Black - Aurora (GP)
  12. Game dynamics aside, the BMM will see its price triple (at least) by the time it's released. It will end up costing as a Polaris so it will be great for CCU-ing to even bigger ships.
  13. Exactly. My point is simple: don't rush buying 1000£ worth of hardware just for Star Citizen. If you play flight sims or stuff were higher level hardware make a different than go for it, otherwise it's a waste (in my opinion of course).
  14. If you remember my old discussion about melting the polaris, this ship has just killed my doubts: Orion re-melted, Hammerhead bought! The Polaris, compared to the HH, will have a different role, they complete each other, but its running costs and the number of required people that worried me. That being said, keep the one you prefer. The HH suits me best and works decently along my current fleet. @RSLtaken sounds good. I wonder when we will see the Pioneer ship + the "settlement" mechanic in-game.
  15. A lot of people love the idea of 2xSticks. Altough if you play different games (DCS), it's a bit of waste. I currently have: Virpil Mongoos T-50 + extensions (I still have my old CH Fighterstick) Thustmaster TWCS (waiting for the release of the Virpil Throttle: https://virpil.com/en/blog/89-introducing-the-vpc-mongoost-50-throttle) CH Pro Throttle CH MFP Thrustmaster MFD Track IR 4 + clip (clip mandatory) Saitek TPM (I don't use it often) Now, do you need all these stuff? Not at all, especially for an arcade flight game such as Star Citizen. Actually, most of the time you can buy a cheap stick and have better results than a more expensive Warthog (wich has a terrible base, a shame because the grip is great). Also, I will be using mouse and keyboard most of the time, I don't care about small aircrafts and I don't thing bigger ones will require a stick at all. So, end of the day, what do you "need"? Nothing more than keyboard + mouse. Next step might be a cheap HOTAS and try a HOSAS if you have the chance. Get a Track IR or a free alternative though. I bought mine at least 10-12 years ago and still works like a charm.
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